The current system can be explained as "match the icon/logos" to each of the required items.

I think if something needs to be learned, it will come after prelude, as nothing so far I have found is 'hidden' item that can be used.

If (for example only) a Craft Knife can be used in place of Shears, it should be upto players to know if it can always be used on the pattern they are using, or only for some patterns. How the player learns this of course is thru trial and error.

I like the idea of Rclick craft menu requirement to see a list of known 'items' that can be used in place of the required item (including the required items). With the craft menu open, Mclick should place that item into the required slot if we know it can go there. But first we must know that Shears can go into a slot that requires a fabric cutting tool.